Bourbon Street is the decoy; Frenchmen Street, ten minutes' walk into the Marigny, is where the brass bands, funk outfits and jazz trios actually live, rolling from The Spotted Cat to d.b.a. until late. Preservation Hall's short acoustic sets are worth the queue — arrive forty-five minutes early, no drinks, all reverence. On Sundays, ask around about second line parades: a moving street party with a band at its head.
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