Lower Broadway's honky-tonks stack live bands three storeys high from morning until 3am, free to enter — tipping the band is the cover charge, so carry small notes. Weekends belong to the bachelorette parties; aim for a Tuesday or Wednesday when the players outnumber the pedal taverns. For the serious stuff, book The Station Inn for bluegrass or a songwriters' round at the Bluebird Café, where Nashville's hit machine road-tests its material.
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