Caye Caulker

Ideal stay

3–4 nights

The vibe

Barefoot, sandy-streeted, deliberately slow

From our guides

1. 01

   The Split

   The channel dividing the island is the main swimming spot, with a dock, a strong current in the middle and a permanent low-key crowd from mid-afternoon.

2. 02

   Belize Barrier Reef

   The reef runs a short boat ride offshore for most of the country's length and is UNESCO-listed. Visibility is reliably good outside the rainy months.

3. 03

   Caye Caulker Marine Reserve

   The protected waters immediately north and east of the island hold turtles, rays and seahorses in the seagrass, reachable on a half-day snorkel trip.

4. 04

   The Great Blue Hole

   A 300-metre sinkhole in the outer atoll, visited by long day boat or scenic flight. The flight suits non-divers; the boat trip is a full and choppy day.

5. 05

   Forest reserve birding

   The island's northern end is a littoral forest reserve with mangrove and hardwood, good for herons, frigatebirds and, if you are lucky, a boa in a tree.

6. 06

   Rice and beans

   The national plate, stewed with coconut milk, comes with chicken, fish or lobster in season. Fry jacks at breakfast and ceviche in the heat of the day.

1. Fly to

   Belize City (BZE)

   Nearest airport to Caye Caulker, about 37km away as the crow flies.

2. Then

   To Caye Caulker

   The island's airstrip (CUK) takes short hops from Belize City. Most people take the water taxi from Belize City instead, about forty-five minutes across to the caye.

3. On the ground

   Getting around

   The island is car-free and tiny: you walk everywhere, or hire a bicycle or golf cart. Snorkel and sailing trips to Hol Chan and the Split leave from the docks in the village.

Public transport: Water taxis are the transport, running several times a day to Belize City and on to San Pedro.

Small wooden guesthouses, hostels and mid-range cabana hotels, plus some self-catering condos. Nothing large, no chains, and very few properties above a few dozen rooms.

• Best base overall

  Caye Caulker village

  The sandy grid of streets between the two coasts, where all the guesthouses, restaurants and tour offices sit. There are no cars, sandflies can be persistent and power cuts happen.

  Find stays in Caye Caulker village →
• Quietest

  North of the Split

  Across the channel by a small ferry, with a handful of low-key places, mangroves and hardly anyone about. Every meal or trip involves the crossing, which stops in the evening.

  Find stays in North of the Split →
• Best with children

  Ambergris Caye, San Pedro

  The larger island half an hour north, with more choice of family resorts, pools and golf carts to get about. It is considerably more expensive and much busier.

  Find stays in Ambergris Caye, San Pedro →
• Best value

  Front Street south end

  The quieter end of the village, where simple guesthouses cost less and the walk into the middle takes five minutes. Rooms here are basic and fans rather than air conditioning are common.

  Find stays in Front Street south end →

Worth knowing before you book: Hurricane season runs June to November and boats from Belize City are cancelled in rough weather, so build in a spare day before flying home.

Getting there

Water taxis run from Belize City several times daily, and small planes land on the airstrip. Boats can be rough and spray reaches the back seats.

Lobster season

Lobster is closed for several months over the summer to let stocks recover. Anywhere serving it out of season is worth walking away from.

Cash

Belize dollars are fixed to the US dollar at two to one and both circulate. Cards are accepted patchily and the island's cash machines run dry.

Sandflies

They bite hardest at dawn and dusk on the sand. Repellent with a high concentration, plus long sleeves in the evening, makes a real difference.

Reef care

Wear a rash vest rather than sun cream on snorkel trips, and never stand on or touch coral. Guides will say the same, more firmly.