Warsaw hides its best nights in courtyards: the Pawilony, a scruffy warren of a few dozen micro-bars tucked behind Nowy Świat street, where beers cost a third of the western rate and every doorway plays a different genre, and the summer food stalls of Nocny Market on a disused railway platform. Praga, across the river, adds post-industrial clubs in old vodka factories. Start at the Pawilony on a Friday around 9pm and let the warren decide the rest.
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