Riga's medieval Old Town looks the part but pours tourist prices at weekend-break volume; the locals drink along Miera iela, a scruffy-cool street of bars, and in the converted zeppelin hangars and yards around the Central Market, where Latvian craft beer costs a fraction of the old-town rate. Try Riga Black Balsam — a tar-dark herbal liqueur — in a cocktail rather than neat, at least initially. Summer brings 10pm sunsets; winter, blissfully warm cellars.
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