Rarotonga

Ideal stay

A week

The vibe

Barefoot, easy-going, low-key tropical

From our guides

1. 01

   Cross-Island Track

   A half-day scramble over the island's spine, past the volcanic plug known as Te Rua Manga, or the Needle, then down through jungle to a waterfall on the southern side.

2. 02

   Titikaveka beach

   The south coast's calmest, clearest water, with coral heads close to shore and shade under the ironwood trees. Better for swimming than the shallow northern edge.

3. 03

   Punanga Nui Market

   Avarua's Saturday morning market brings growers, food stalls, ukulele players and pareu sellers together. Arrive early, because the good things go before lunch.

4. 04

   Island night feast

   Most weeks bring a buffet of umukai, food cooked in an earth oven, followed by Cook Islands drumming and dance that is faster and louder than visitors expect.

5. 05

   Ika mata

   Raw fish cured in lime and dressed with coconut cream, eaten everywhere from market stalls to beach shacks. The local answer to ceviche, and the dish to order first.

6. 06

   Aitutaki day trip

   A short flight north reaches a lagoon of sandbars and motu islets, usually visited by boat with snorkelling stops. Early start, long day, and worth clearing the diary for.

1. Fly to

   Avarua (RAR)

   The airport is on the doorstep.

2. Then

   To Muri

   Rarotonga (RAR) is about 10 minutes from Avarua and 25 minutes from Muri on the east coast; almost all flights arrive from Auckland, with a few from Sydney and Los Angeles.

3. On the ground

   Getting around

   One road circles the island and two bus routes, labelled Clockwise and Anticlockwise, run along it; scooters and bicycles are the usual alternative for the 32-kilometre loop.

Public transport: The two circular bus routes are genuinely useful through the day, though services thin out in the evening.

Beach bungalows, self catering units and small family owned resorts, with one or two larger hotels. No high rise, no international chains, and buildings must stay below the palm tops.

• Best base overall

  Muri

  The turquoise lagoon with the motu islets offshore, plus the night market, kayaks and most of the island's better places to eat. Some stretches are shallow and weedy at low tide.

  Find stays in Muri →
• Quietest

  Titikaveka

  South coast, where the lagoon deepens and the snorkelling is the island's best, with beach houses and few lights at night. You will drive or bus to dinner.

  Find stays in Titikaveka →
• Best value

  Arorangi

  The west coast, with sunsets, cheaper self catering and a string of small resorts. Swimming depends on the tide and the reef passage, so check before you book.

  Find stays in Arorangi →
• Closest to the sights

  Avarua

  The island's only town, with the Saturday Punanga Nui market, banks, the museum and the airport nearby. Not a beach base, but everything practical happens here.

  Find stays in Avarua →

Worth knowing before you book: The island is small and the dry June to September season books out, especially over New Zealand school holidays. Many places quote in New Zealand dollars and ask for a deposit.

Getting there

Flights come via Auckland, with seasonal services from Sydney and Los Angeles. The time difference from Europe is severe, so plan a slow first day.

Scooter licence

Hiring a scooter may require a local licence depending on what you hold at home. Check the current rule with the hire company before you count on two wheels.

Cash or card

New Zealand dollars are the currency, alongside local coins and notes. Cards work in bigger places, but carry cash for markets, stalls and the bus.

Sundays

Sunday is observed seriously. Many businesses close, church services welcome visitors who dress modestly, and the island slows almost to a stop.

Reef safety

Swim inside the lagoon and stay well clear of the passages where water drains out through the reef. Reef shoes save feet from coral and stonefish.