Each winter, herring shoals cram the fjords around Skjervøy, north of Tromsø, and orcas and humpbacks arrive for the buffet. Boat trips watch dorsal fins slice green Arctic water in the strange blue twilight of polar night; hardier operators offer snorkelling alongside them, drysuited and awestruck. The season runs late October to January. Choose a small RIB or sailboat over the big ships for a lower, closer, quieter encounter — and pack every layer you own.
Featured in Ten wildlife encounters that will humble you · Adventure