Temple Bar's sessions are cheerful but priced for coach parties. The real thing happens at The Cobblestone in Smithfield, a pub with a music problem where trad players gather nightly in the front corner and the drinking arranges itself around them — stand quietly, don't request Galway Girl. Whelan's on Wexford Street covers the rock and songwriter end. Weeknights beat weekends; the musicians stay later when the crowds are thinner.
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