Weligama's cooler neighbour has become Sri Lanka's surf-town sweet spot: reef and beach breaks for every level, stilt fishermen posing photogenically offshore and a strip of speciality-coffee cafés that would embarrass east London. Rent a scooter and you can surf a different break every morning for a week. The south-coast season runs November to April; go early in that window for smaller crowds and greener paddies.
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