Skip the Juliet balcony — a twentieth-century add-on with a permanent scrum beneath it — because Verona's real seductions lie elsewhere. A Roman arena stages open-air opera all summer, wine bars pour Valpolicella by the glass, and the evening passeggiata along Via Mazzini is a spectator sport in itself. Cross Ponte Pietra at dusk and climb to Castel San Pietro for the terracotta panorama, then book an osteria table in Veronetta, where the locals actually eat.
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