Varenna
Bellagio gets the fame; Varenna, across the water, gets the sunsets and a fraction of the crowds.
- Best forCouples · Culture seekers · Photographers
- In November13°C · 9 rainy days
- Ideal stay2–3 nights
- Approx. flying time~12h 10m from Los Angeles
- CurrencyEUREuro
- LanguageItalian
- Local time12:171h ahead of the UK
- PlugsType C / F / LBring an adapter
- Drive on theRightOpposite to the UK
- Dialling code+39
Why go
On the eastern shore, where the lake splits into two legs, a village of ochre houses stacks up a steep slope from a small fishing harbour. Stairs do most of the work between levels, a walkway runs along the rock at water level, and the Grigne mountains rise sharply behind. It takes twenty minutes to walk the whole place and most of a day to leave it.
Two or three nights is plenty, usually within a longer northern Italy trip taking in Milan, Bergamo or the Dolomites. Mid-lake ferries put Bellagio and Menaggio minutes away, which is the real argument for staying on this side rather than the western shore. April to June and September are the pleasant months; August is hot and full. Pack light for the stairs.
- Ideal stay
- 2–3 nights
- The vibe
- Steep, quiet, unhurriedly pretty
From our guides
Its lakeside passerella walkway strings together gelato stops, tiny beaches and villa gardens, with the Grigne mountains rising behind. The mid-lake ferry triangle — Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio — is the best-value boat trip in Italy, so buy a day pass and hop freely. Climb to Castello di Vezio for the aerial view.
Featured in Ten lake-and-mountain towns for a perfect summer week
Things to do
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Passeggiata degli Innamorati
A walkway pinned to the rock at water level joins the ferry dock to the old harbour, a few minutes long and best walked at dusk.
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Villa Monastero gardens
A former monastery turned villa, with a long terraced garden of citrus, cypress and statuary running for several hundred metres beside the water.
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Castello di Vezio
A short uphill walk reaches a ruined castle with a falconry display and the classic aerial view down onto the fork in the lake.
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The mid-lake ferry triangle
Boats shuttle constantly between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio, and a day pass effectively turns the crossings themselves into the sightseeing.
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Bellagio
The famous village on the promontory opposite, with stepped alleys and villa gardens, easily done as a morning before the coaches land.
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Fiumelatte
The short river beside the village, said to be one of the shortest in Italy, runs white out of the hillside and only in the warmer months.
Getting there
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Fly to
Ferno (MXP)
Nearest airport to Lake Como, about 60km away as the crow flies.
-
Then
To Varenna
Milan Malpensa (MXP) is the usable gateway, about two hours by train via Milan or Lecco and around an hour and three quarters by car. Lugano (LUG) is nearer but has almost no flights.
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On the ground
Getting around
Varenna is small, steep and entirely walkable, and the mid-lake ferry triangle to Bellagio and Menaggio is how you see the rest of the lake.
Public transport: Very good: the Milan to Sondrio railway stops in the village and the lake ferries do the rest.
Flights
Los Angeles Lake Como, Italy
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Roughly 12h 10m in the air from Los Angeles (LAX), estimated from the distance — check for a direct route. Pick a month to see every available flight with live prices.
Check dates and prices
Pick your departure date, then your return.
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Flight times are estimates; prices open on Google Flights.
When to go
Daytime highs run from about 9°C in January to 27°C in July. Driest December to February; wettest in May, with rain on about 21 days.
The year at a glance — pick a month for detail
November13° · rain 9 daysCool with rain most weeks.
Monthly figures averaged from daily records for 2020–2024 at this location (ERA5 reanalysis). Live conditions from MET Norway, CC BY 4.0.
Where to stay
Small lakeside hotels, converted villas and apartments in the old village, with a few larger four-star properties on the shore. Nothing resembling a resort complex.
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Best base overall
Varenna
Small, beautiful and on the railway line from Milan, with the ferry pier for the mid-lake triangle at the bottom of the village. Steps and steep lanes throughout.
Find stays in Varenna -
Best value
Perledo
The hillside village directly above Varenna, with apartments and rooms at noticeably lower rates and better views. Getting down is easy, getting back up is not.
Find stays in Perledo -
Best for couples
Bellagio
The famous promontory across the water, all cobbled staircases and villa gardens, lovely once the day boats leave. Prices are the highest on the lake.
Find stays in Bellagio -
Best with children
Menaggio
The third point of the ferry triangle, flatter than the others, with a lakeside lido, pool and more everyday shops. Less postcard-pretty, much more practical.
Find stays in Menaggio
Worth knowing before you book: The village has very few rooms and sells out for May, June and September months ahead. Check how many steps lie between the car park and the door before booking.
Search everything else in Varenna by budget. These are indicative budget bands in GBP per night for two people, not live quotes or guarantees of hotel type. Check your dates, guests, taxes and final price on Booking.com.
Good to know
- Getting there
- Trains from Milan Centrale reach Varenna-Esino in about an hour, and the station is a short walk above the village, which makes a car unnecessary.
- Ferries
- Passenger boats and the car ferry leave from the same stretch of shore. Check the last crossing back, as evening services thin out early.
- Footwear
- The village is stairs, cobbles and wet stone beside the water. Leave the smooth soles at home.
- Crowds
- Day-trippers arrive late morning and leave by early evening, so the village is at its best before ten and again after seven.
- Book ahead
- There are few rooms and few tables in Varenna itself. Reserve both well in advance for summer weekends.
Nearby destinations
Lake Como
Italy · 2km away →
Lugano
Switzerland · 26km away →
The GoldenEye bungee
Verzasca Dam, Switzerland · 39km away →
Maloja Pass
Switzerland · 54km away →
St. Moritz
Switzerland · 69km away →
Bernina Express
Switzerland to Italy · 72km away →Elsewhere in Italy
Related articles
Quick answers
When is the best time to visit Varenna?
Daytime highs run from about 9°C in January to 27°C in July. Driest December to February; wettest in May, with rain on about 21 days.
How long should I spend in Varenna?
Our suggestion: 2–3 nights.
How do I get to Varenna?
Milan Malpensa (MXP) is the usable gateway, about two hours by train via Milan or Lecco and around an hour and three quarters by car. Lugano (LUG) is nearer but has almost no flights.
Do I need a car in Varenna?
No. Very good: the Milan to Sondrio railway stops in the village and the lake ferries do the rest.
What currency and language are used in Varenna?
Currency: Euro (EUR). Language: Italian. Plugs: type C and F and L.
Who is Varenna best for?
Best for couples, culture seekers and photographers. In a phrase: steep, quiet, unhurriedly pretty.