Ninety minutes' flight east of Mauritius, Rodrigues is what its big sister was fifty years ago: a volcanic speck inside a lagoon twice the island's size, where octopus curry is the national dish and Saturday's Port Mathurin market is the week's main event. There are no resorts to speak of — family-run guesthouses do the hosting. Walk the coastal path to Trou d'Argent beach, routinely rated the Indian Ocean's loveliest and reliably deserted.
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