Raja Ampat

Ideal stay

A week or more

The vibe

Remote, reef-rich, spectacularly quiet

From our guides

1. 01

   Piaynemo viewpoint

   A wooden staircase to a platform above a cluster of karst islets and turquoise lagoons, and the image most people know the region by.

2. 02

   Cape Kri

   A reef off Kri island where a single dive once recorded an unusually high count of fish species. Strong currents and constant traffic of big fish.

3. 03

   Manta cleaning stations

   Reef mantas gather at known cleaning sites around the Dampier Strait, most reliably between roughly December and March, when plankton is thickest.

4. 04

   Wayag

   A remote northern group of steep limestone cones and lagoons, reached on a long boat trip or by liveaboard, and worth the effort.

5. 05

   Walking sharks and wobbegongs

   Epaulette sharks that walk on their fins across shallow reef at night, and carpet sharks lying flat under coral heads by day.

6. 06

   Dawn birdwatching walks

   Guided walks from homestays on Gam and Waigeo reach the forest trees where red and Wilson's cendrawasih display at first light, an early start always worth making.

1. Fly to

   Sorong (SOQ)

   Nearest airport to Raja Ampat, about 111km away as the crow flies.

2. Then

   To Waisai

   Waisai's small Marinda airport (RJM) has very few flights, so nearly everyone flies to Sorong (SOQ) on the Papuan mainland and takes the fast ferry to Waisai, about two hours.

3. On the ground

   Getting around

   From Waisai, homestays and resorts on Kri, Gam and the smaller islands are reached by open boat, arranged in advance with your host; nothing runs on spec.

Public transport: Beyond the Sorong ferry there is none, so every island transfer is a chartered or homestay boat.

Family run village homestays in thatched huts over the water, a few mid range dive resorts and one or two luxury lodges. No chains, no shops to speak of, no roads.

• Best base overall

  Waisai

  The ferry town and administrative centre, where you buy the marine park permit and find guesthouses, cash machines and supplies. The reefs, though, are a boat ride away.

  Find stays in Waisai →
• Best value

  Kri Island

  Village homestays on stilts with house reefs you can snorkel from the steps, at a fraction of liveaboard cost. Expect bucket showers, no electricity at times and simple meals.

  Find stays in Kri Island →
• Quietest

  Gam Island

  Mangrove bays and forest walks to see birds of paradise at dawn, with homestays scattered along the shore. Very little happens here after dark, which is the appeal.

  Find stays in Gam Island →
• Best with children

  Arborek Island

  A tidy village on a shallow lagoon where the jetty snorkelling is superb and the sea stays calm. Facilities are basic and there is no clinic, so go prepared.

  Find stays in Arborek Island →

Worth knowing before you book: Homestays take bookings by message and often ask for cash on arrival, so bring rupiah from Sorong. October to April is calmest, and the marine park fee is payable separately.

Entry permit

A marine park entry permit is required and is bought on arrival in Sorong or Waisai. Keep the card, because it is checked.

Cash or card

There are no cash points on the small islands and homestays are cash only. Withdraw rupiah in Sorong for the whole trip.

Diving

Currents are strong and many sites suit experienced divers. Nitrox, dive insurance and a surface marker buoy are all worth arranging.

Pack this

A dry bag, a torch, reef-safe sun cream and any medication. The nearest pharmacy is a long boat ride and a flight away.

Timing

October to April is generally calmest. June to September can bring wind and swell that limit boat movements between islands.

Siargao

Philippines →

Siquijor

Philippines →

The Visayas: Cebu

Bohol and Siquijor, Philippines →

Sabah

Borneo, Malaysia →

Komodo dragons

Indonesia →

Orangutans in Borneo

Malaysia →

Elsewhere in Indonesia