Jamaica

Ideal stay

10 nights, split between two bases

The vibe

Mountainous, musical, gloriously unbothered

From our guides

1. 01

   Boston Bay

   The birthplace of jerk cooking, where chicken and pork are smoked over pimento wood at roadside pans near a small surf beach. Eat here rather than anywhere else.

2. 02

   Blue Mountains

   Coffee grows on these slopes above Kingston, and the pre-dawn hike to the peak is a serious undertaking rewarded with sunrise over the whole island.

3. 03

   Rio Grande rafting

   Bamboo rafts poled down a jungle river near Port Antonio for a couple of hours, a tradition that began with banana transport and became a leisurely afternoon.

4. 04

   Reach Falls

   A series of pools and cascades in rainforest on the east coast, where you can swim into a small cave behind the water. Less crowded than the famous falls further west.

5. 05

   Treasure Beach

   A string of fishing villages on the dry south coast with dark sand, no resorts and a strong community tourism tradition. The island at its most relaxed.

6. 06

   Trench Town and reggae history

   Kingston holds the neighbourhoods, studios and museum where reggae was made. Guided visits explain the politics as well as the music.

1. Fly to

   Montego Bay (MBJ)

   Nearest airport to Jamaica, about 65km away as the crow flies.

2. Then

   To Port Antonio

   Ian Fleming airport (OCJ) at Boscobel handles small regional flights and is about an hour and a half west of Port Antonio by road. Most visitors arrive at Montego Bay or Kingston instead, roughly four hours and two hours away respectively.

3. On the ground

   Getting around

   The east coast is strung along one coastal road, with Boston Bay and the Blue Lagoon within 20 minutes of Port Antonio. Route taxis run between towns and drivers can be hired by the day.

Public transport: Shared route taxis and minibuses connect the towns cheaply and chaotically, but they will not take you to the beaches, waterfalls and jerk pans that make the east coast worth the trip.

Large all-inclusive resorts crowd Negril and Montego Bay, while the east and south run on guesthouses, villas with cooks and small owner-run hotels. Hostels are rare.

• Best base overall

  Port Antonio

  The green, unhurried east coast, close to Boston Bay's jerk pits, the Blue Lagoon and the Rio Grande. There are few big hotels and roads from Kingston take longer than the map suggests.

  Find stays in Port Antonio →
• Best for couples

  San San and Drapers

  Just east of Port Antonio, a string of villas and small guesthouses above a coastline of coves. Rather isolated, so you either cook, hire a driver or eat at your guesthouse.

  Find stays in San San and Drapers →
• Best with children

  Ocho Rios

  The north coast's family hub, with Dunn's River Falls, calm beaches and plenty of resorts. Cruise-ship days flood the town and the vendor attention is persistent.

  Find stays in Ocho Rios →
• Best value

  Treasure Beach

  The south coast's fishing villages, with guesthouses at modest rates and a community tourism tradition. Beaches are darker sand and rougher, and you need a car or route taxis.

  Find stays in Treasure Beach →

Worth knowing before you book: Winter rates roughly double from mid-December to April, and hurricane season runs June to November. Agree airport transfer prices in advance, since drives are long.

Driving

Traffic drives on the left, roads are potholed and mountain routes are slow. Many visitors prefer a driver, which costs less than you would expect.

Cash

The Jamaican dollar is used everywhere, though US dollars are widely accepted at poor rates. Carry small notes for roadside food and route taxis.

Eat local

Roadside pans, cook shops and fish shacks serve the best food on the island. Ask what is fresh rather than ordering from a laminated menu.

Timing

December to April is driest and busiest. Hurricane season runs June to November, with the highest risk from August onwards, so take travel insurance seriously.

Safety

Kingston has areas best avoided and beach hustling is persistent in the resort towns. A polite, firm no works, and local advice is worth asking for.