Capri's less vain neighbour in the Bay of Naples: thermal springs, a castle on its own islet and gardens that tumble to the sea. Elena Ferrante set her lovers' summers here for good reason. Soak together in the terraced pools at Negombo, eat rabbit all'ischitana in a hillside trattoria, and stay in Sant'Angelo — the pedestrianised fishing village on the south coast — rather than the busier ferry ports.
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