Gothic spires, firelit pubs and a castle looming out of the haar — Edinburgh in winter is pure atmosphere. Climb Calton Hill for a 3.30pm sunset over the whole smoky skyline, thaw out with a whisky flight in a snug bar off the Royal Mile, and eat by the fire in a Stockbridge bistro. Hogmanay is the famous blowout, but early December, all fairy lights and quiet closes, is the sweeter deal.
Featured in Ten cosy winter city breaks for two · Romantic