Yes, the summer crowds are biblical — which is why you come in October, stay inside the walls and learn the city's second timetable. By 8pm the Stradun's limestone, polished by centuries of feet, gleams under the lamps and the alleys smell of grilled fish. Walk the full wall circuit at opening time, take the cable car up Srđ for sunset over the Adriatic, and drink wine at a buža bar cut into the cliff face.
Featured in Ten candlelit old towns made for slow evenings · Romantic