The Queen of the Dolomites treats the passeggiata — the evening stroll in good clothes — as a competitive sport. Around it: rose-coloured peaks, sixty kilometres of winter trails, ice skating in the Olympic stadium and Italian food that laughs at usual ski-resort standards. Take the cable car towards Tofana simply to gawp. Aperol o'clock arrives early and often, as it should.
Featured in Ten cosy winter resorts for people who don't really ski · Mountain