Bocas del Toro

Ideal stay

4–5 nights

The vibe

Ramshackle, humid, water-bound

From our guides

1. 01

   Red Frog Beach

   On Bastimentos, named for the tiny strawberry poison dart frogs in the leaf litter behind the sand. Surf can be strong, so check conditions before swimming.

2. 02

   Playa Estrella

   A calm, shallow bay on Isla Colón where starfish sit in the shallows in numbers. Look at them, but do not lift them out of the water.

3. 03

   Cayo Zapatilla

   Two uninhabited islands inside the Bastimentos marine park, with white sand and the clearest water in the archipelago. Reached only on an organised boat trip.

4. 04

   Dolphin Bay

   A sheltered inlet with a resident population of bottlenose dolphins. Responsible boats keep their distance and cut their engines rather than chasing.

5. 05

   Bocas Town

   Clapboard buildings on stilts over the water, a working harbour and the best concentration of restaurants, dive shops and boat captains in the islands.

6. 06

   Old Bank

   The main village on Bastimentos, Afro-Caribbean and Guari Guari speaking, reachable only by water and easily worth an unhurried afternoon.

1. Fly to

   Isla Colón (BOC)

   Nearest airport to Bocas del Toro, about 29km away as the crow flies.

2. Then

   To Bocas Town

   Bocas del Toro (BOC) is on Isla Colón, a few minutes by taxi from Bocas Town. Arrivals come by short domestic flight from Panama City, or overland to Almirante and then a half hour water taxi.

3. On the ground

   Getting around

   Water taxis are the buses of the archipelago, running out to Bastimentos, Red Frog and Playa Estrella. Agree the fare before boarding, and hire a bicycle for Isla Colón itself.

Public transport: Boats, not roads. The water taxi network is constant in daylight and stops after dark.

Over-water cabins on stilts, jungle lodges, hostels and small guesthouses. A few boutique eco-resorts on the outer islands, and no international chains anywhere.

• Best base overall

  Bocas Town, Isla Colon

  The archipelago's hub, where the water taxis, restaurants and dive shops are, so day trips organise themselves. The music from the waterfront bars carries a long way at night.

  Find stays in Bocas Town, Isla Colon →
• Quietest

  Isla Bastimentos, Old Bank

  A Guari Guari-speaking village a short boat hop away, with jungle behind and Red Frog Beach across the island. There are no roads and no cash machine, so plan supplies and money.

  Find stays in Isla Bastimentos, Old Bank →
• Best with children

  Bocas del Drago

  The calm north end of Isla Colon beside Starfish Beach, with shallow water and a handful of low-key places to stay. It is a bumpy half-hour from town and dining is limited.

  Find stays in Bocas del Drago →
• Best value

  Isla Carenero

  Two minutes across the water from Bocas Town, with cheaper over-water cabins and none of the late-night noise. Every trip off the island costs a boat fare, which adds up.

  Find stays in Isla Carenero →

Worth knowing before you book: The wettest months bring cancelled boats, so build slack around flight days. Christmas and Easter fill the islands with Panamanian holidaymakers and rates rise accordingly.

Water taxis

Boats are the transport system here. Agree the fare before you climb in, and expect to get wet on a choppy crossing.

Cash or card

Panama uses the US dollar. Card acceptance is patchy outside Bocas Town, so carry small notes for boats and stalls.

Sandflies

Worse than mosquitoes at dawn and dusk on some beaches. Repellent, long sleeves and a spot away from damp sand all help.

Currents

North-shore beaches have rip currents and no lifeguards. The lagoon-facing sides are far safer for casual swimming.

Getting there

Fly from Panama City, or take the long bus and boat combination via Almirante. The flight saves the better part of a day each way.